- CNC’d billet end tank 600 hp core intercooler
- Bumper beam
- Powdercoated steel intercooler mounting brackets
- Bead-rolled and powder coated black aluminum intercooler piping featuring our machined billet compressor outlet flange
- High-quality 4-ply PRL silicone couplers
- Stainless T-bolt clamps
- Vacuum Lines
- Recirculation hoses with stainless clamps
- Machined washer fluid neck
- Intake mounting bracket w/ hardware
- All necessary hardware for installation
- Logo Stencil
TGV deletes are recommended for optimal performance and fitment
- 25 – 40 hp / tq and even more mid-range gains without a tune in comparison to stock intercooler and stock charge pipe
- 60 – 75 hp / tq and even more mid-range gains with supporting mods after tune in comparison to stock intercooler and stock charge pipe
- 25 hp and 35 ft/lbs with over 50 hp / tq mid-range gains in comparison to aftermarket TMIC and charge pipe upgrade
- Increased turbo spool
- Drastically decreased air temps and engine knock
- Improved power-consistency
This kit is intended to allow customers to run higher boost levels and timing without the heat-soak / knock of a little turbo being run out of efficiency through a TMIC for extended periods of time. From our experience, a stock location charge pipe kit will gain 20 – 35 hp / tq. An efficient aftermarket TMIC will typically pick up 15 – 30 hp / tq on these cars due to the engine’s ability to run more timing and peak boost safely, where the factory pieces would cause detonation (Subarus’ biggest enemy). Our FMIC kit saw an additional 25 hp and 35 ft / lbs of tq at peak and over 50 hp / tq throughout midrange by drastically decreasing temps and allowing us to run more timing and boost safely in comparison to a car that ALREADY had a charge pipe kit and Turbo XS TMIC. This would equate to roughly 60 – 75 hp (and even more tq) and over 100 hp / tq throughout the midrange to the wheels in comparison to cars with stock charge pipe and intercooler.
Where our kit really shined was with back-to-back testing. Usually these cars end up heat-soaking after repetitive dyno pulls or spirited driving and lose power as the ECU begins to pull timing. Our kit makes consistent power, even after abuse; great news for racers! All dyno pulls were within a couple horsepower / torque of each other.
“This is where the pretty graphs come in! After spending two days tuning against the climbing charge temps with the factory hot mount, I was ready for the FMIC upgrade. Having owned and tuned other platforms with top mount intercoolers and run them at the track, the heat soak is brutal (even at the drag strip — we’d see staging temps of 50-60 degrees Celsius on a good pass).
With the PRL FMIC and even more boost our charge temps actually continued to DROP after the pull started — and the temps started lower to begin with. With the factory hot mount temps would just climb every pull. Does this have an impact on power? Absolutely. There shouldn’t even be any argument here.“
– Vit Viper
If you plan to utilize the provided stencil to represent PRL on your intercooler:
-Clean and make sure your intercooler is dry.
-Place the cardboard stencil onto the front of the intercooler (Make sure the intercooler is not upside down, the PRL logo is on the driver’s side end tank).
-It is recommended to tape down the stencil to have a sharp logo and to avoid moving.
-Mask off or cover the end tanks to avoid overspray.
-Apply a high temp engine enamel style spray paint (we recommend Duplicolor DE1635 Ford SemiGloss Black, any color can be used).
-Multiple coats may be needed to have full coverage, this varies per color.
-Allow to dry 30-60 minutes before installing the intercooler.
-If any mistakes are made such as runs/overspray acetone or paint thinner can be used to remove any unwanted paint or to remove the stencil entirely, though this will take some time.
-Keep the stencil handy and in a safe spot without bending if you would like to refresh your intercooler after years of road debris blasting it! (Stop blowing holes in my ship!)